Most overseas visitors' impressions of a typical Aussie city are shaped by their perception of Sydney, with its splendid harbour and exciting energy. Unlike its kinetic northern neighbour, Australia's second city is bound to disappoint at first glance. Melbourne 's location on rather flat terrain beside a muddy river is no match for Sydney's brilliant sunsets or stunning, smack-in-the-mouth harbour setting.

 

However, any initial disappointment is likely to give way to feelings of pleasant contentment and growing curiosity once you've begun to explore the city's streets, hidden arcades and alleyways, rested in the soothing greenery of its parks, and ventured into vibrant and unique inner suburbs. There's a lot here that makes Melbourne the most "English" or "European" of all Australian cities: a reasonably cool climate (although January and February are prone to barbaric hot spells when temperatures can climb into the forties), stately public buildings, Victorian mansions, leafy avenues and decorative parklands. Last, but certainly not least, Melbourne has a lively passion for eating and drinking well, a predilection for style and elegance, and a vivid interest in intellectual debate and the arts.

Its atmosphere has been deeply influenced by migrants who arrived in waves from southern and eastern Europe and Southeast Asia following World War II, bringing with them cultures that have become part of the fabric of the city. In summer, the relaxed, universal outdoor Australian way of life asserts itself with backyard barbecue parties, riverside picnics and days on the beach. Sports too are important - people from all walks of life show a keen interest, and, uniquely in Melbourne, "footy" ( Australian Rules Football ) has been elevated to almost religious status.

Like its home state Victoria, Melbourne can be compared to a mosaic, and there's a challenge to every visitor to go out and experience as many facets of the city as possible. Outside the centre, this means exploring the suburbs , each one a little urban centre in its own right. Beaches, cafés, promenades and boutiques fringe the coast, south of the centre, while inland Victorian mansions, Vietnamese, Jewish, Greek and Italian communities, museums, art galleries and parks each make their distinct mark on the city. All are easily reached from the centre in a tram or bus, and many make great bases, offering exciting nightlife and a refreshing mix of flamboyance, seediness, industrial activity and residential tranquillity.

Owing to Melbourne's central location at the middle of Victoria's coastline excursions further out are also feasible by day-trip. The ranges in the east and northeast are covered by forests of towering eucalypts and patches of cool temperate rainforest. Closest to Melbourne are the Dandenong Ranges , partly suburban with quaint villages, partly covered by protected eucalypt forest. The scenic Yarra Valley in the northeast, Victoria's answer to South Australia's Barossa Valley, is one of many wine regions around Melbourne. To the south, huge Port Phillip Bay is encircled by the arms of the Bellarine and Mornington peninsulas. Mornington Peninsula offers more opportunity for wine-tasting, and in addition to bucolic scenery there are beaches galore, the windswept ones at the ocean coast popular with surfers, while the placid waters of the bay are good for swimming and messing about in boats. While Geelong and most of the Bellarine Peninsula are not quite so captivating, Queenscliff near the narrow entrance to Port Phillip Bay, with its beautiful, refurbished grand hotels from the Victorian era is enjoying something of a comeback as a stylish (and expensive) weekend getaway.