Trains are not the most obvious way to get around Australia, which has a limited network, but there are a couple of wonderful, epic journeys to be made. The populous southeast, at least, does have a reasonably comprehensive service: interstate railways link the entire east coast from Cairns to Sydney, and on to Melbourne and Adelaide. The two great journeys, though, are the coast-to-coast Indian Pacific (Sydney-Perth; 65hr; seat only $466, sleeper $976, first class with meals $1485) and the Ghan (Adelaide-Alice Springs; 20hr; seat $200, sleeper $411, first class with meals $631). Like much of the national network, both these routes have been losing money for years, and the plan now is to make these journeys unapologetically upmarket (and therefore expensive) - a down-under answer to the Orient Express. A real partnership between the Venice-Simplon-Orient-Express has created the Great South Pacific Express (in Australia free call Abercrombie and Kent on 1800 677 777, or check out the Orient-Express website, www.orient-express.com ), which runs year-round from Sydney up the east coast to Cairns. The entire journey takes four nights or can be done in components (the three-day Brisbane to Cairns component, with all meals and sightseeing, costs from $2830, while the entire trip will set you back $3930). Other than these, there are a couple of inland tracks in Queensland - to Mount Isa, Longreach and Charleville, plus the rustic Cairns-Forsayth run and isolated Croydon-Normanton stretch - and suburban networks around some of the major cities. Only around Sydney does this amount to much, with decent services to much of New South Wales. There are no passenger trains in Tasmania.

 

The advantages of travelling by train rather than bus are comfort and (usually) a bar; disadvantages are the slower pace, higher price and potential booking problems - Queensland trains, for instance, travel at about 60kph and require a month's advance booking during the holiday season. The famous long-distance journeys can also be booked solid, so you'd be wise to reserve a place before you leave home if this is a major part of your plans. Sample one-way fares from Sydney are: Adelaide $207 (sleeper $414); Alice Springs $439 (sleeper $895); Brisbane $131 (sleeper $313); Cairns $184 (sleeper $225); Melbourne $131 (sleeper $313); and Perth $466 (sleeper $976).

Rail passes include the Austrailpass , which must be bought before you arrive in Australia, and gives unlimited travel for fourteen, twenty-one or thirty consecutive days on all state-owned railways, including suburban links around state capitals; prices cost £264 (US$431) for fourteen days, £344 (US$560) for twenty-one days and £414 (US$672) for thirty days. You can also buy a seven-day extension for £138 (US$197). The Austrail Flexipass - which must also be bought before you arrive in Australia - lets you linger without wasting your ticket: eight days of travel within a six-month period, for example, costs around £220 (US$357); you can also choose 15, 22 or 29 days. To be sure that you can make full use of your pass, it's advisable to book your route when you buy it. Western Australia, Victoria, New South Wales and Queensland also have their own passes available through main stations, but check any travel restrictions before buying - interstate routes do not overlap as far as passes are concerned.