Six local bus companies and one charter service reach most destinations on the island, the main two companies being Tasmanian Redline Coaches and Tassie Link. You cannot use a mainland bus pass with either of these, and services are limited, often not running at weekends, especially on the east and west coasts; in winter and spring services are even further reduced. The largest operator, Tasmanian Redline Coaches (tel 03/6231 3233 or 1300/360 000), offers frequent scheduled services between Hobart and Launceston via the east coast or direct via the Midland Highway, from Devonport to Hobart via Deloraine and Launceston, and along the northwest coast from Devonport to Burnie and on to Smithton. Tassie Link (tel 03/6272 7300, www.tigerline.com.au ) specializes in bushwalkers' transport, getting you to some of the more remote destinations all over the state in their minibuses: scheduled services run from Hobart to Queenstown via Lake St Clair, with a connecting service to Strahan; Queenstown to Launceston via Cradle Mountain and Devonport; from Hobart up the east coast as far as St Helens; and from Launceston east to Bicheno. Tassie Link also run "Wilderness" services (minimum of four people) and separate tours. "Wilderness" services include routes running west from Hobart to Mount Field National Park and Scotts Peak or south to Cockle Creek via Huonville and Lune River, and from Launceston to the Walls of Jerusalem National Park and to Cradle Mountain via Deloraine and Devonport. Their fares are rather high, considering the short distances - for example, Strahan to Launceston is $55 one-way, and Hobart to Mount Field is $22. Fares on Redline are government-regulated: for example, $23 for the trip from Hobart to Launceston, and $38 from Hobart to Devonport. Hobart Coaches (tel 03/6234 4077) head north out of Hobart to Richmond and New Norfolk, and south to Woodbridge, Cygnet, Geeveston and Dover. Several smaller local operators on the east coast, such as Bicheno Coach Service (Coles Bay-Bicheno; tel 03/6257 0293), Peakes Coaches (St Marys-Swansea; tel 03/6372 5390) and Sun Coast (Derby-St Helens; tel 03/6376 3458), help to fill in the gaps. Maxwell's Charter Bus (tel 03/6492 1431) provides a service based on a minimum of four passengers from Devonport and Launceston to and around the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair area.

 

Buying a local bus pass is one way of cutting costs: Tassie Link ( www.tigerline.com.au ) offer a Tassie Wilderness Pass which covers a range of time spans and journeys (from $150 for seven-days' travel within a 10-day period, to $250 for 21-days' travel within a 30-day period), and combines its scheduled and "Wilderness" services, getting you to all the major bushwalking areas and giving you discounts off their tours. You'll also reach the main cities and towns, though very indirectly. Also, it's worth investing in YHA or VIP membership before coming to Tasmania, which will give you substantial savings on all bus tickets and tours.

Renting a car is a sensible option, considering the vagaries of the transport system, particularly if you can get a group together. Local operators offer reasonable weekly rates, starting from about $300 for a budget car or $720 for a top-of-the-range model, including basic insurance; as Tasmania is such a small island kilometres are usually unlimited, and you don't need a lot of petrol. Though distances seem short compared to the mainland, roads are often winding and mostly two-laned - there are few freeways, except some short stretches on the outskirts of large cities - so driving can be slow and tiring. At dusk and night-time you have to be especially careful of animals darting in front of your car, as evidenced by the high number of dead native animals you'll see by the roadsides. However, there are few cars on the road, so you should be able to relax a bit and enjoy the scenery. The lack of traffic also makes cycling an attractive option, especially in summer, and on the flatter midlands and east coast routes; otherwise, there are plenty of gruelling hills to keep you in shape. Several operators in Hobart, Launceston and Devonport rent bikes for touring.

You could also choose to go on a tour of the island with a small-group outfit aimed at independent-minded travellers. Under Down Under Tours (tel 03/6369 5555 or free call 1800 064 726, www.vision.net.au/~under_downunder ) offer a five-day tour (departing Devonport or Launceston Thurs & Sun; $395 including breakfast and lunch but not accommodation) which does a loop of the island and includes plenty of bushwalking and some wildlife spotting. They also offer a two-day tour (departing Devonport or Launceston Tues & Thurs; $199) of the northwest, which includes the Arthur River cruise. The tours can also be combined ($575).